Monday, 8 December 2014

Gorillas Tracking in the Wilderness

Deep in Uganda's south-west lies the forested region of Bwindi Impenetrable National Park. There are numerous ways to access the nearby town of Kisoro but the most popular option is an adventure on its own.

I make the ten-hour journey from Entebbe in a four-wheel drive. The road is long, dry and bumpy, my driver jokes about the free African massage. There is no air conditioning and with the windows wound down a film of orange dust settles on my bare arms.

Uganda's climate is perfect for growing fresh food and there is an abundance being sold at kiosks along the dusty road. Whilst the food bowl is full, there is still a lack of access to fresh water and therefore women and children in the searing heat walk for kilometres balancing plastic yellow containers above their head.

I spend the night in Kisoro but I am anxious as I can't wait to head into the jungle to search for a Silverback Gorilla.

The morning begins with an education session. The essential number one rule is "whatever you do, do not run" - okay that sounds easy enough.

After leaving the education room, a guide explains the topography that consists of three volcanoes nicknamed "the guide," "old man's teeth" and "small pile of stones." I umm and ahh in agreeance. Our self appointed guide discusses re-forestation and the lack of education about soil and regeneration within local villages. As interesting as it is I have one thing on my mind. He weighs over two hundred and fifty pounds and an arm span of about two point three metres.

The weather conditions are fine and our guide is confident that the trackers know the general area of the gorilla's whereabouts.

We begin our trek through the dense forest. Our guide uses a machete to help us weave through the thick growth of vines, stinging nettles and harshness of overgrown vegetation. Heading uphill it's quite an exhausting walk but fortunately after only an hour and a half we hear rustling in the distance. I can barely breath at the distinct sound of an animal. A resonating roar and the crushing of leaves echoes through the mountain.

My heart is pounding under the pressure of excitement and fear. I pause to see what is happening. By standing still I have unintentionally broken the group into two and exposed myself to the path of a wild male silverback gorilla. His monstrous knuckles thump the ground. Barking and pounding he seems irate.

Without warning the giant silverback leaps directly in front of me. Arms poised in defence, standing still in my tracks I recall the number one rule 'whatever you do don't run.'

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